The quality of a man, often reflected in the shirt, how to have a good shirt?
Most of them look at the fabric, count, accessories, cutting and pattern as a whole, but they should also be detailed to a lot of technical details. Let's figure out what constitutes a true haute couture shirt.
Couture shirts vs. regular shirts
1. 3mm deep-sea mother shell buckle
Advanced button technology: 3mm deep-sea mother shell button
Common button technology: plastic button (resin button), river shell button
Buttons are an important criterion for judging the quality of a shirt. A low-quality shirt does not require too much craftsmanship.
A high quality clasp must be natural material above all, and burnish feels strong, hardness is tall, knead very thick in the hand.
The good shirt USES the deep-sea mother shell button more, this kind of button is very hard, can break the needle of the sewing machine, the luster is extremely rich change, this is the artificial button even the river shell button can not do, of course the price is also relatively high.
Most high-end shirts have 1.8mm fritillars and 3.5mm fritillars.The best thickness is 2.5-3mm, comfortable to the touch.
Now the custom shirt, with the deep-sea mother shell button, every time the customer wears a shirt, the button, the feel of the thickness of the completely do not worry about it because it is too thin and too small to jump out, texture thick can give a person has been steady calm and confidence.
2. Handmade coral nail fastening
Advanced workmanship: thread on buttons, sewn into coral shape
Common craft: the thread on clasp, sew into "two" word or "ten" word
Common craft: the thread on the button, sewed into "two" or "ten" characters, this kind of sewing is very common, want to know the button thread meet badly, easy to loose and jump, damaged the shirt from the side.
A good shirt will be sewn into a coral shape, strong and beautiful.If you can't remember the name of this melodramatic, remember the name of another pickled pepper: the chicken claw button.
This is a buttonhole as the center of the circle, respectively to the other three directions of the enchanting extension of the nail buckle method, so far only through artificial hand seam can be made.It's the workmanship of a top shirt, and if you find one, the price will surprise you.
3. Collar: collar bottom contrast, collar tip support
(1) collar bottom contrast
Advanced workmanship: the side of the collar against the neck, the surface undulates, and the fabric is alive between the collar lining
Common craft: the collar is close to the neck side, the surface is flat, the material and the collar lining is sticky
Many people wear a shirt all day, the neck will rub uncomfortable, even uncomfortable people straight tie.
This is because the shirt has a lining to keep the collar upright.Normal shirt will be the lining paste on the side of the neck, with a hand touch, stiff, very "neck".
A shirt made with advanced technology will stick the lining on the other side, so it is called the "reverse fabric of the collar bottom". From the appearance, the side where the collar is next to the neck, the fabric is undulating and slightly wrinkled, which is soft to touch by hand.
(2) customize the collar tip support between the collar
Advanced workmanship: custom collar tip support at bottom of collar
Common craft: nothing
Collar pole is one of the accessories of high-end shirt, common at collar wide high-grade dress shirt, and cufflinks as a fashion weapon of high-end shirt, the role is used to support fixed broad slender collar tip, keep collar straight.
4. Italian frill (classical Italian style)
Advanced technique: there are many small three-dimensional flaps on the back, shoulders and wrists.
Common technique: large flat folds on the back, shoulders and wrists.
The back gathers
These delicate folds, shaped like a waterfall, are the most obvious feature of the shirt, and are also a shirt craft that tailors are proud of -- Italian pleats.Originating in Italy, this is where the "shirt-shoulder" of the Italian suit (also known as the "waterfall shoulder" or "Neapolitan shoulder") comes from.
It's not just for looks: many people feel constrained when holding their gills or arms in one hand.If it's not the shirt that's getting smaller, it's the flat machine stitch of a regular shirt that doesn't provide enough slack in the joints at the shoulders, back and wrists.
Italian pleats provide more room for movement and keep the shirt looking nice.
Because a cleft is too thin, can only manual, manpower and time cost is high, I have never seen in the clothing brand, in American style and advanced sewing technology is popular today, can be through the loose degree measure and machine sewing cooperate to solve the problem of activity space, only the pursuit of aesthetic restoring ancient ways of professional players will only be required to do this kind of Italian style, this process is generally applicable to hang down on the good fabric.
5. Back splicing
Advanced technique: a seam in the middle of the back and right shoulder blades (normal shirts don't) is made of two pieces of fabric. If it's a striped fabric, the overall effect of the stripes is like an "eight".
Common technique: the back presents a whole piece of cloth.
It is a lot of people wear a shirt, the place always has inclined to fold over the shoulder, affect beautiful.Because usually the person's left and right shoulders are uneven, the ordinary shirt cannot adapt.
Cross the shoulder figure splicing with two pieces of fabric splicing, let the left and right sides go along your shoulder, wear up to fit, neat line.
It looks like just one more process, but actually implies more investment.Reflected in a striped or plaid shirt, the difficulty becomes greater, the work in the "plaid", for the ordinary shirt is not a necessary cost.
Just like Italian frills, if you prefer classic and elegant style, we can also customize the shirt with a hand-stitched back.
6. armpit dislocation on the sleeve
Advanced technology: two staggered vertical lines are sewn at the armpit of the shirt;
Common technique: only one vertical line runs up and down the armpit of the shirt.
The guest complains a way: the shirt that buys in the dress shop before, raise an arm to feel very embarrassed, because the lower part always can show, again fill back troublesome and say, do in public the action that fill pants waist is very embarrassed.
People's arms and the body is not in a straight line, a normal shirt through the vertical line sewing down, a move, when lifting the arm, the shirt tucked into the pants out at the same time, to avoid this embarrassing situation.These techniques can be used to meet greater comfort with a more fitted size, making the sleeve slightly independent of the body, arm movement more comfortable, lifting the hand on the body is not obvious, will not completely out of shape.
7. 3cm24 needle high-density suture
Advanced technology: the thread is a dense line, 3cm24 high-density thread, that is, 1cm can go 8 stitches.
General process: dotted wire line, 1cm wire 5, 6 needles.
The number of high-density stitches will break bad fabrics, which also requires higher level of machines and workers. Therefore, the shirt fabric that can meet the number of high-density stitches reflects that this shirt is made of good fabrics and more processing costs.
The more tightly stitched the shirt, the more durable and practical it is, and the more times you wash it, the less the line will bulge and make the shirt look old.
8.First buttonhole diagonal lock
Advanced technology: the first buttonhole of the shirt is a 45° diagonal lock.
Common craft: the first buttonhole of the shirt is vertical and vertical lock.
You must have had the experience of picking yourfinger red and not fastening the first grain.
The buttonhole of a good shirt will be designed in an oblique fashion and opened at an ergonomic 45° Angle
9. the bottom of the horizontal hole lock
Advanced technology: shirt bottom end of the horizontal button hole penultimate second buttonhole horizontal lock.
General process: all vertical locks at the bottom of the shirt with horizontal button holes (or the last button with horizontal locks).
Gentry shirts are different from casual shirts in that they are usually close-fitting.When sitting down, belly (penultimate the 2nd buckle) often pull buttonhole to open mouth, demeanor is not.
A good shirt will design the buttonhole here as a horizontal keyhole. When the belly circumference expands, the buttonhole will extend laterally and the front will not look deformed enough to pull the shirt apart.
Normal shirt will not take into account these, all buttonholes are vertical, let your belly tight fly buttons;Some brands will imitate the last buttonhole horizontal lock, but it is not the belly area, there is no point in doing horizontal lock.
10. Fold the corner at the end of the flap
Advanced workmanship: the end of the flap is a folded triangle.
Plain shirt: a strip (or square) at the end of a flap.
If the shirt is worn more often, the corner at the end of the flap will turn over, which is caused by the friction of daily wear.It is also caused by the way the ordinary shirt is wrapped.Triangle fold Angle is thinner than square, but triangle is especially stable, has stable, firm, withstand the characteristic of pressure.It is not easy to tilt up, making the shirt keep beautiful all the time.
11. the bottom of the sword head reinforcement paste
Advanced technology: the bottom end of the bottom swing seam is reinforced with a sword head.
Common craft: bottom end of bottom of bottom swing seam has triangle cloth reinforcement (or not reinforcement).
Don't overlook the small details of the bottom of the hem (the side seam). Every time you pull your shirt out of your pants, it pulls into this position.Ordinary shirt does not do any reinforcement, a line seam in the end, some will add fabric reinforcement, but too thick will not beautiful.
A truly advanced technique is to fix the bottom of the hem of the shirt with a sword head (pentagon), which is not only stronger, but also more aesthetically pleasing in shape.There are so many steps in this process that many brands and shirts do not pay attention to this detail.
Advanced customization is a subject about exquisite knowledge, I hope you can know more, know how to improve the quality of life.
Post time: Feb-17-2020